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The Bark’s DIY First Place Winner—Advanced Level
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DIY Doggy House - Shasta Style

Tools and Materials:

Materials List:
  • 1 sheet 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood
  • 
1 pc 2'x4' x 1/2" AC ply (side template)
  • 
1 pc 2' x 4' 3/4" project plywood (gluing blocks)
  • 
2 pc 2' x 4' 1/4" luan plywood (routing templates)
  • 
1 sheet bending plywood, cross grain
  • 
2 pcs pine/spruce milled to 1 1/8" x 1" x 20" - bottom cross braces
  • 
2 pcs pine/spruce milled to 1 1/8" x 1" x 20" - top cross braces
  • 
2 pcs pine/spruce milled to 1' x 7/8" x 24" - bottom support cleats
  • 
2 pcs pine 1/2" x 8' quarter round - kerfing
  • 
2 pcs pine 5/8" x 8' half round - exterior trim
  • 
1 pc 1/2 x 36" hollow round steel stock - axle
  • 
2  7" lawn mower wheels
  • 
1  small roll 20" aluminum flashing
  • 
1 qt primer ( Zinsser cover stain exterior-interior)
  • 
1 qt finish coat white
  • 
1 qt top color finish
  • 
1 qt bottom color finish
  • 
1/2 pt aluminum paint - trim
  • 
foam brushes
  • 
masking tape
  • 
small tube pure silicone
  • 
1 tube acrylic caulk
  • 
finish nails
  • 
24  3/4" by #4 wood screws
  • 
Titebond II glue
Tools Required:
  • table saw
  • 
band saw
  • 
jig saw
  • 
drill, 1/2" bit
  • 
router, top bearing bit, 1/4" and 1/8" round over bits
  • 
3 ratchet tie downs (to be used as strap clamps)
  • 
Many clamps  16 -20 C clamps, 3" capacity,  40-50 spring clamps, 1 1/2 "
capacity - you can't have too many
  • 
mat knife
  • 
metal straight edge 24"
  • 
caulk gun
  • 
putty knife
  • 
chisel(s)
  • 
hammer
  • 
pneumatic brad nailer and small compressor (not absolutely required but highly recommended)

Making the side template:

See the drawing for the shape, which measures 34¼”L x 23½”H. The bottom measures 19⅞”W by 36”L, including the integrated tongue. It is important in bending the plywood top that the sides are matched exactly or the top will tend to run off one side or the other and be frustrating and cause much cursing. To avoid this, make a pattern from a lesser grade of ½ inch plywood, which should be carefully shaped. I drew the shape freehand, then adjusted with straight edges and a French curve until it was "eye sweet", as boat builders say, then I used the band saw to carefully cut out the shape, trying to split the pencil line, and then filed and sanded it fair. It is important for the finished edge to be perpendicular to the face because this will be the guide for the bearing on the pattern router bit when making the two sides. This is also a good time to figure in the door. From the bottom of the side, measure up 3¼" to the bottom of the door. The door measures 10”W by 14½”H. Draw the dimensions on a piece of ¼” plywood (for a cutting pattern) then use a compass to arch the top and round the lower corners. Drill a hole to start the jig saw, cut out the door shape, then sand and file carefully to the line to make a smooth-edged pattern. Lay this on the side pattern (see drawing for location), scribe with a pencil (I prefer a 7mm mechanical pencil because it's always the same diameter and doesn't need frequent sharpening), remove the ¼" pattern and rough out the door in the side pattern with the drill and jig saw. Clamp or tack the ¼” ply door pattern onto the side pattern and, using a router with a top bearing pattern bit, rout the door opening. Now you're set to make two sides, one with a door and one without.

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